Dante Centerfold take 2

Here are some photos that show more of the same stance but differences (more then color) can still be found:



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Dante Centerfold

Dante has been on the Horse Tech Black 3 now for two weeks and his winter coat has finally mostly shed out (just a touch of red under his belly). The question is will he stay black through the summer? BTW that shine is only due to feed and brushing – no shampoo, spray or Photoshop.

But the biggest issue here is the lost of topline ;( ARGH. However, one thing I do like is that his muscles are not as hard as they were when he first showed up. When I saw him in Kansas, the muscles on his upper forelegs and gaskin areas were almost clown-like, like Popeye.

This might have been due to 1.) his PSSM 1 which affects muscle tone and 2.) that he was being worked regularly by a trainer (though she said she had only had him under training for less then 3 weeks and then not every day). I’m sure he was in better shape with her since he was on a workout program and here he is on a more relaxed schedule.

Well, whatever reason, I like how he is looking here except for the back – that has to be our number 1 priority!


May 29, 2017


July 2017


May 29, 2017


July 2016

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Working towards Panther Walk, moving leg lifts forward

It’s been really exciting to follow @intrinzen (on Instagram) as their philosophy closely matches mine (more then any trainer I’ve ever reviewed) and has been a lot of what I’ve personally been striving towards but without having as clear or developed a training plan as they have.

Their program literally has been a bridge for me to figure out where and how to take Dante to get him stronger and closer to riding! I’d highly suggest checking out their IG account, and if you like what you see, visit them on Facebook.

Panther Walk is a term they have coined for an exercise they teach to help the horse regain his self carriage and pride in himself. It’s a precursor to improving the horses’ movement all through +R. Here is a description by Kathy:

The slow, effortful, exaggerated walk is a near-perfect exercise for mobility and stability/motor control–the keys we need for self-carriage. Imagine yourself balancing by standing on one leg, and then reaching forward and having to catch yourself from falling. This is a “self-balancing” exercise because we do not tell the horse how to move– we give him a goal (like reaching for a target with his front leg) and the horse has to organize himself to keep going without falling. It can take a few months to develop this exaggerated walk (we call it Panther Walk….

I’ve been experimenting to see how I would do that as Dante doesn’t like to move – standing still is more his style 😉 so what he does is instead of moving forward he just keeps stretching and stretching like one of those long slinky Dachshund kiddie pull along toys.

Usually I’m standing at his side, but my videographer needed some space so I’m a bit more forward then I would like to be. Standing in front of him inhibits the desire to move forward; standing at his side gives him more options to move.

Before this video, he had already been exposed to clicker training months back and he had been taught to lift the leg using a short target. Now I’ve changed to a long target (pool noodle mounted on a fishing rod) and I want alternate leg lifts that show some sort of movement forward:

Some different ideas of how to get your horse moving forward after he knows stationary leg lifting:

1.) Ask him to start alternating his leg lifts. Alternating will often move them forward because they sometimes take a step forward when they change legs.

2.) Another direction could include asking him to leg lift once, step forward and then give the second leg lift. Whatever seems more natural to you and your horse.

These techniques above are called Chaining and/or a Behavior ChainA series of behaviors (alternating leg lifts) linked together in a continuous sequence by cues (me alternating my leg lifts), and maintained by a reinforcer (food treat) at the end of the chain. Each cue (leg lift) serves as the marker and the reinforcer for the previous behavior, and the cue (changing my leg) for the next behavior.

What naturally happened is that Dante knows he gets rewarded for a leg lift. He just keeps lifting the same leg though so what do you do? You ignore. This is a Differential Reinforcer. You can find more Definitions referenced here. So it’s important that you wait and give your horse time to figure it all out on HIS OWN.

My experience is that horses that know X (lift foreleg) start repeating that one behavior RRRR (lets say the right leg only) to get that treat! When you ignore it, he will keep repeating until he tires and decides to lift the other leg L. That is when you Click and give him a Jackpot (bigger number of treats, more favorite treat) as the reward and end the session. Eventually he will figure out he has to do RL not RR or LL.


A big problem for us is when we do standing activities he likes to drop. I’ve got to click when he isn’t dropped because doing so when he is excited in his man parts, literally “marks” that behavior as desired (oh brother).

I decided to work with a long target so he is further away from me (my presence often excites this behavior – I know, I know) and where I can easily see if he has dropped (without bending around and looking under when I’ve just missed the behavior to mark).

If he drops, I have these options: a.) remove the target and suspend the game (ignore); b.) remove the treat reward and give a scratch reward; c.) up the speed – we do a little chase target and when trotting he’ll generally retract; and/or d.) change the game – we go to chasing a ball where he seldom drops.

So the above videos are in no way a completed horse doing the Panther Walk exercise correctly. I’m showing you the beginning of this process and I’ll update as we improve 😉

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Teaching the Horse to Lift a Leg

One of the things I’ve been working on with Dante is Leg Lifts. This isn’t about lifting a hoof to have it picked out or for farrier work (although you could use it for that) but lifting a foreleg higher then your horse normally does when he gives his natural walk.

When a foreleg lifts, the horse’s balance must change to accommodate that loss of balance by shifting the weight to the other remaining legs, usually backwards so the horse can re-center his mass.

  • Improves the horse’s balance
  • Can be done so the back becomes more lifted
  • Opens the shoulders
  • Gives more freedom to the front end of the horse to lift
  • As the front lightens, it allows the hindlegs a place to move
  • Used to improve upward transitions;
  • Encourages the horse’s natural play drive and “proud” stance.

Before starting ask yourself what your eventual goal is. Do you want the leg to lift at the highest point of the knee, or for the toe to be pointed forward?

Also, remember that horses, just like people doing Yoga, will need time to get stronger and more flexible before gaining the highest leg lift or the most forward toe stretch. That’s why I prefer to teach this free of tack and let the horse decide how much to do in order to lessen the chance of injury.


Here are some different methods, all with Clicker Training that teach this exercise in a very short period of time:

1.) If your horse likes to paw, capture him doing it and click-treat. For example, Dancer and Dante both like to lift up their strongest foreleg when being served breakfast. I could have just clicked and treated when they lifted that leg.

This clicker training process is called “capturing.” This is how animal trainers for Hollywood work – they find what type of activity an animal likes to do and then capture it with clicks + rewards so eventually the behavior is repeated on cue. For example, this stretch bow behavior Dante likes to do naturally and it is one of his preferred activities in the morning when I’m preparing his food:

After capturing, put in a cue for the behavior to start getting the behavior on demand.

2.) Another way to capture, is stand by horse and wait for him to naturally lift a foreleg. Most horses will shuffle when they shift weight so, without putting pressure on him, just wait until he lifts a foreleg and capture that behavior with a click and treat. Your horse will go what???? and move about trying to figure out what he did to get that click-treat.

The key here is your horse needs to be familiar with clicker training (see my page “Need Help?” for links to how to start your horse with clicker training (positive reinforcement only +R). And make sure your click is on POINT at the EXACT moment of the leg lift. 😉

3.) My preferred way is to have the horse reach the leg up using a target. The reason is that “targeting” can be used in a lot of useful activities (i.e. trailering, lining up to a mounting block, entering a wash rack area, leading a horse etc…) and I generally like my horse to know it so I can use it as a springboard to these other behaviors.

In this video, I first reward for one leg touching the short target. Once that is established, I withhold clicks until she lifts her alternate leg (I missed the first time she did it!). The leg must actually touch the target for the click.

I use a soft target homemade of foam covered with a sock which is mounted on a small stick. Place your target stick close to a foreleg, but not touching. When the horse shifts, he will accidentally touch it – click and treat. It will take a few sessions for him to figure it out but generally, I find horses learn this quickly.

Once he knows a leg lift to touch the target, start eliminating the target and use a cue such as lifting your leg. Or trying moving the target in front of him so he has to move to touch it.

The drawback to using a target is the horse can get stuck and just want to stand when lifting his leg – and I will eventually want him to be doing this activity when he walks forward (the eventual goal which I will cover in a 2nd post).

In this video, the target has been removed and I’m lifting my own leg. When I want her to change legs, I change my own leg. For filming convenience, I’m standing in front, but eventually you want to move to her side – shoulder or ribcage – so you are not blocking her way and she has freedom to move forward.

BTW Dulce (the Palomino pony) is subordinate to Dancer so I was able to have her there without issue. She doesn’t get clicker training yet, but I did give her a little (free) treat when we ended our session.

4.) How I taught Dancer was we had a small step on a platform as you entered the tackroom (at a former barn). I brought her to it – and as she lifted her foreleg to step up, I captured the leg rising with a click treat. If you have a place where your horse has to step up to get there, this might be a good option.

The above methods don’t use a pressure system and are positive reinforcement +R only. This is really an easy exercise so resist the temptation to hurry it along by pushing or pulling the horse to make him lift a leg. Remember, the more he does the exercise under his own initiative the more excited he will be about doing it!


Things you can do with Leg Lifts:

1.) Use it to help the horse step up into a horse trailer, go over ground poles, move onto a mat, into a wash rack area, step onto a platform etc… this is a variation of “follow target.”

2.) The Jambette (or Spanish Greet): Horse lifts one leg very high with toe out, almost horizontal. While many videos on Youtube show how this is taught using negative reinforcement (tapping on the leg with a whip to get the leg to move), just continue the positive reinforcement exercise detailed above, shaping the height or stretch using your target.

Remember, all horses need time to get enough strength to do this exercise; you’ll see that Dante has one leg he favors over the other – and one that he lifts higher then the other. Yes, horses like humans, have natural asymmetry. The best thing though is if using Positive Reinforcement without tack, your horse can then determine how much he is capable of doing and the risk of injury is less.

Keep in mind that if pushed too quickly, the back will become dropped and this provides little beneficial strengthening or stretching.

2.) Jambettes can be performed on level ground or done on a platform. With the later, the Horse puts both forelegs on a platform and lifts one leg high (almost horizontal). When done this way you can start seeing that the horse naturally shifts weight backwards.

3.) Jambettes and pedestals can be used to encourage a deeper stretch to get better leg lifts. With the horse having one leg on the platform and one off, he brings his nose to touch a target between his legs that is lower such as between his knees, then his pasterns, or the height of the pedestal.


Jambettes can evolve into Spanish Walk. I don’t teach that exercise so won’t be going into it here. Personally, it doesn’t serve any purpose on how I ride, and I also think too many people are doing it with long backed horses with dropped backs instead of the powerful collection that a Baroque horse can naturally exhibit. Without a strong back, Jambette will just weaken the horse’s spine increasing the dropped back. This is when an exercise is indeed a “trick.”

My personal goal is towards something called Panther Walk coined by Intrinzen. So I’ll go into that further in a future post but for now go visit them on Instagram for some fantastic photos and Q&A.

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If Hitler likes -R you might want to change your mind

If you’ve been around the horse training world for over 2 decades listening to the Natural Horsemanship trainers Medicine Show and you know how much of it is actually bullshit you will find this Hitler Rant Parody very funny because it hits the horseshoe nail on the head.


Thinking about this Hitler seems to know a LOT about how clicker training works!!

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Horse notes to self


I’m going to start this new thing where a few times a month I’ll jot down some things that have struck me about the training process that I want to remember but don’t really call for an entire blog post about it:

tinycarrot  I always push too much, trying “one more time” because that is my personality – it’s also how we’ve been taught in sports (push past the limits!). But I’m seeing that I’m getting better at stopping when the horse is still interested, leaving him wanting more, and finding a good place to end.

tinycarrot  Personally, I prefer working tackless (probably because I’m lazy) but I need to remember to put Dante into a halter or a cavesson right from the start. He has associated the bridling to work and I need to change that narrative in his head to something more positive.

tinycarrot  Just started getting him to touch the fly mask – another thing that I would have expected him to be okay with and he is decidedly NOT. Remember, don’t push it! Let him get more familiar with it.

tinycarrot  He’s far more willing to be active in the evening but I go out in the morning. I’ll have to think on this and how it would fit into my schedule. Perhaps when it gets super hot here in the summer I’ll do that so I can hose him off.

tinycarrot  Winter coat is almost all shed off but he still has too much for my liking. What is coming in underneath though is black and he’s got some shine so maybe finally all these supplements are working. Definitely he seems to prefer the taste of Horse Tech Black 3 to the Horseshine flax seed.

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It’s about a Brush…

Over the decades, I’ve discarded, lost or gave away horse equipment and tack. As my life changed and I felt more hopeless and sad (i.e. the death of Pepper, the problems with Z, the choice of euthanasia for Tristan), I pulled away from investing into my horse equipment.

About 45 days ago I sat down with myself and had a discussion. Was I going to continue doing the very least with Dante because I was feeling down about his health issues or was I going to pull myself out of this slump? Was I going to reclaim my love for horses or truly just let it die away?

Another conversation was acknowledging I needed to return to the place I was when I bought Pepper: excited about my horse – looking at every moment being precious.

I asked myself what did I do with Pepper that I could do with Dante? Of course the answers are about time – I would spend time just being with Pepper, grooming her, playing with her, sitting with her in addition to riding and training her.

Recently, I placed an order for one of my favorite brushes. This was a significant step – because of the reasons I cited above. It’s time to shed the grief and move forward again. For the first time, I have the surplus money to indulge myself if I choose wisely and space out my purchases. This is a huge difference from my time when Pepper came into my life – I had a preschooler and a baby, wasn’t working outside the home, and money was tight.

Finally, now I have the means and time to indulge a bit. And I need to bring my feelings to the party.


Here’s a rather long run down on the grooming equipment I use the most and recommend the highest (once I got started apparently I couldn’t stop):


1.) a Rice Root brush. These stiff bristles make a good “mud” brush to knock off dirt clumps from the horse’s body coat, especially the legs, and is my favorite during winter. They are quite stiff so if you own a horse with sensitive skin this might be only for winter.

Typically this is the first brush to use in your grooming regime until the horse has a thin summer coat and then you switch to the brush below.


2.) Tampico Brush has softer bristles making it soft enough for a thinner summer coat or as a “finishing” brush – the brush used at the end of your grooming session (after the mud brush) to bring up shine. Soft enough for the face.

When I was teaching lessons I bought a complete grooming kit for each horse so there would be no cross contamination if a horse had any sort of disease or infection. When you need to clean and disinfect your brushes check out Brush Therapy!

Last note on brushes: I’m not a fan of any of these popular, nylon bristle brushes unless you are using them for bathing. Nylon bristled brushes are cheap brushes that don’t fit comfortably in the hand and neither do they clean the coat very well. In my experience, nylon brushes have too long bristles making it hard to work out the dirt in the hair and they also lose bristles over time.


3.) Curry comb. There’s a lot of choices and I’ve tried many of them. However, these with the finger points are actually the best on removing hair and dirt with less effort of time and pressure. I use them mostly when the winter coat starts the shedding. Trust me, I taught two summers of horse camps with dozens of kids and many horses, these are the best.

Personally, I prefer the Unigroom brand but that is only available now in the pet stores in the dog area. It also seems they are discontinuing it 😦

4.) Shedding blades should only be used on the thickest of coats (i.e. winter) or to clean the other brush (run the serrated edge over the bristles which knocks out dust and hair). The one that I prefer is the single blade with handles and that has a metal loop which slides off, to open the blade up as a strap.

The multi circles one is way too harsh. If you use help or children, do not let them near this tool – you’ll regret it.


5.) Hoofpicks. Generally, I’ve just used a cheap one but with Dante’s draft-like feet, I’ve recently bought this other Ultimate hoofpick. It has a sharper, wedge sized pick and is extremely sharp! With it, it’s been easier to pull out debris in packed hooves but be careful which direction you go as you can actually cause some damage it’s that sharp!

6.) Thrush spray – PURE Hard Surface Disinfectant is what I highly recommend! This is a clear spray which does not stain, sting or smell. It destroys thrush on contact and is recommended by the natural hoof trimmers. I prefer to buy the gallon jug and then dispense into a smaller spray bottle. However, you can buy a smaller bottle from Office Depot.


I live in a hot area of the US so during the summer we will have at least 30 days where we are above 100 degree F. With Dante’s dark coat that situation is made worse so he sweats almost everyday of late spring, summer and early fall.

For that reason I rinse him off almost every day during the summer and only bath him with shampoo about once a week or twice a month.

I also no longer show so having a squeaky clean horse at all times is not of any consequence to me. Another thing is I believe horses build up a natural oil in their coat which I don’t want to interfere with on a daily basis with shampoo.

squeegee_scraperThe Sweat Scraper that I like the best has a rubber squeegee on it. This sweat scraper really takes out the water from the coat, which means your horse will dry faster. You’ll be amazed at how much more moisture is removed from the coat with this type of scraper!


For bathing, I buy a Water Wand from a garden store. This gives me nice gentle spray and with the long handle I can reach all over the horse without having to get close (i.e. over the back, under the tail, the inside of the legs etc…). I’ve used the hand held pistol sized ones and they are harder to use, and generally don”t give the gentle spray I prefer.

Shampoos: I like to try different brands and I admit that I get seduced by smells. I worked at Petsmart when they still had State Line Tack so had a chance to look through a bunch of different shampoos. What you need to be careful about is a lot of the newer brands today are very thin – lots of water – with nice smells and a high price tag.

Corona is a great brand and is one I keep in my tack room. It gives a lot of lather with just a capful and it washes out really easily, leaving no residue. The price is great.

Vetrolin bath still has that amazing smell! Great price, lathers really well and rinses out great!

For color coats, especially white or black check out the Quic color brands but remember horse coats are really built first from nutrition.

My favorite medicated shampoos include Aloe Advantage Concentrated Shampoo for equines but for some reason this product is getting harder and harder for me to find 😦 Otherwise I just use Farnam’s Aloedine Aloe Vera with Iodine shampoo for fungal infections.

Vetrolin Liniment I use as a Brace after a workout for when I don’t want to shampoo the coat (I like to only wash with shampoo about once a  week). To use as a brace, take about 1/4 cup of Liniment and mix to a gallon of water. Use a small flexible bucket to scoop the brace over the horse’s body, don’t rinse off, and just squeegee clean.

Conditioners: I generally only use on mane and tail. I rinse the body off way too often to put product on that would just be wasted.

Healthy HairCare Hair Moisturizer. Smells great, goes on well and rinses out well. Can be used as a leave in conditioner which I always appreciate! Mix with water and use as a spray.

Mane and Tail by Straight Arrow was sooo popular when I was in college! Whoa I’m dating myself! Very economical, easily found and can be used as a leave in conditioner.

Product Testing

Some products I haven’t used yet which I want too is EquiFuse. It’s rather pricey for me and their system seems overally complicated but it does get rave reviews. So I’m planning on ordering the CFS Concentrate Shampoo, the CitaCreme Deep Conditioner (rinse out) and the Gleam conditioner (leave in) for tails and mane.

I’m also getting the BioMane tail bag and hair brush. While the product may be great I’m already feeding Dante a ton of supplements and want to just wait on changing any of that.

I did buy some grooming products from some Instragram accounts last month and that was a mixed bag. While I love the smell of the shampoos, the result is okay. The biggest issue was some of the spray bottles: I like to be able to hold my bottle in my hand and use my fingers to trigger the spray – and this bottle had a wimpy sprayer that quickly broke. Well, I don’t mind helping small businesses out with my money but I won’t be a repeat buyer.

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